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3817 Posts in 1182 Topics- by 2192 Members - Latest Member: mariodea

February 09, 2012, 08:19:09 AM
Maintenance IssuesTR2 - TR3TR-2, early 3 pushrods for mastercylinder
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Author Topic: TR-2, early 3 pushrods for mastercylinder  (Read 494 times)
tr_man
Newbie
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Posts: 24


« on: June 10, 2010, 06:30:37 PM »

Hello there,

   I have yet another little glitch,working on my 54 TR-2. The pushrods that go into the master cylinder, have different diameter holes on the fork part of it. The clevis pin fits. But on the larger sized hole, it has room to move around. It doesn't take the screw in type. I bought these nls on ebay a few years back. They are identical to the old ones I have that are worn out. I've checked the work shop manual, parts catalog, and moss..no help. The part numbers all seem to match the tr4 and later clevis pins. Anyone out there have an idea what to do? Or what the solution is? If I put the ones in, they will wear out rather quickly , having 2 different sized holes for the clevis pin..oh what fun it is!!

Tr_man
1954 TR-2, TS 1084 L
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charley fitch
Sr. Member
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Posts: 335


« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2010, 01:51:13 AM »

Is it possible that you have acquired a fork that should have been tapped with threads and wasn't, and that is the reason it doesn't take a threaded clevis pin?  If that were the case it seems like one could try tapping the threads into the large hole and use the threaded clevis pin.
The TR4 clevis pins on my cars all have just a single diameter fork and clevis pin with a cotter key at one end.  The TR3 had the large threaded end on the clevis pin.

One last thought is that the hole diameter in the pedal extension is likely the same size as the small hole in the fork ( unless it is excessively worn).  So the large hole is useless unless it were for the threaded pins.
 What about using your old fork on the new master cylinder? When I am confronted with nonconforming new parts I often will reuse some old parts.  In this case the old fork is likely not worn out if worn at all.
Charley Fitch  Cool
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TR3driver
Full Member
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Posts: 233



« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2010, 09:21:14 PM »

I'm only guessing here, as I didn't pay enough attention to my early TR3.  But I think Moss just flat has the wrong part listed for this application.  The factory SPC shows P/N 105129, which is clearly not the simple clevis pin (PJ8812) used on the TR4 and later cars.  Since it doesn't have a "standard hardware" number (with the two letters in front), there must be something special about it (like being two different diameters).

Unfortunately, I don't know of a source to suggest.  I checked TRF & Revington, both show it NLA.  Only solutions I can see are :
a) Find one used.
b) Make one yourself (or have it made).
c) Adapt a later Girling style clevis to your Lockheed MC.
d) You might be able to fabricate some sort of sleeve to fit in the gap.  Depending on the size of the hole in the clevis, something like thin wall brass tubing, or copper "refrigeration" tubing might be the right size, if you can just cut off a thin slice of it.  Or, assuming this will be a lightly driven car, even a short length of heavy copper wire might do.
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Randall
58 TR3A TS39781LO :(now totaled Sad
56 TR3  TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L waiting for engine rebuild
71 Stag LE2014LBW waiting for 4-speed rebuild
JohnB
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Posts: 11



« Reply #3 on: July 06, 2010, 04:37:16 PM »

The pushrods on my original '54 TR2 Lockheed M/C are exactly as you describe, two holes unthreaded. However the pin that goes into them has a large shoulder at one end to go into the fat hole on the pushrod. The other end of the pin is drilled for a cotter pin and utilizes a spring inboard of the cotter pin, to take up the slack and prevent vibration. Virtually no play involved with the pin.

Actually it sound like you have the correct pushrods but the wrong pins. You could wrap some shimstock around the end of the pin until it fits snuggly in the larger hole.

John B.
TS 4085 L

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