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3888 Posts in 1208 Topics- by 2248 Members - Latest Member: jaydeb1949

May 24, 2012, 01:29:38 AM
Maintenance IssuesTR6"Humming Noise" and engine quits
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Author Topic: "Humming Noise" and engine quits  (Read 1549 times)
Tommal
Newbie
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Posts: 13


« on: May 30, 2007, 09:13:07 AM »

I recently "awoke" my 73 TR6 from a six year slumber and have driven it about 100 miles. Recently the engine lost power and I heard a "humming" from the exhaust before the engine died. After the first time I was able to restart the car and drive it about a mile before it reoccured. The car will start but will not continue to run even at full choke. The last thing I touched, just before the initial occurrence, was to fix some exhaust leaks on the engine side of the muffler. Any ideas?
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Tom M.
Darrell
Jr. Member
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Posts: 56


« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2007, 01:08:22 PM »

You might want to make sure your exhaust system is not blocked by a varmit that took up residence during your Sixes downtime.  Undecided Just a wild guess.  A blocked exhaust can prevent the motor from running.
Good Luck,
Darrell
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Tommal
Newbie
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Posts: 13


« Reply #2 on: June 03, 2007, 06:40:22 PM »

I removed the muffler and started the her up to see if the problem reoccurred. The car started on full choke and came to 2000 RPM. But, as I let it warm up, it began hunting between 3000 RPM and hot idle or less (just before it bogged down completely, it would increase again to 2000 then repeart the cycle.
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Tom M.
Darrell
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Posts: 56


« Reply #3 on: June 06, 2007, 11:30:31 AM »

This high idle sounds like your Six might be sucking air from intake manifold leaks.  Sometimes you can find them by spraying some carb cleaner around the manifold.  If the RPM's increase then you have a leak.  Very common for Sixes to have manifold gasket problems.
Darrell
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DeansTR6
Newbie
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Posts: 2


1975 TR6 ('74 1/2 by Comm. #)


« Reply #4 on: June 10, 2007, 02:54:50 AM »

I agree with Darrell about vaccuum leaks. But instead of spraying stuff around in a large area to check for leaks, I want to pass on the knowledge of a little tool my Dad gave to me that's cheap and easy to make and gives pin-point accuracy. You will need a cheap workshop propane torch kit (you know, the one you're always moving around to get to the tools you use Cheesy ) and a piece of tubing 20"-30" long (cut to suit) with an i.d. large enough to fit on the stem of the torch. I use aquarium pump hose.

Remove the flame head from the stem of the torch regulator and place the tubing over it. A little soapy water will help a snug fit. You now have a vaccuum leak detection tool. Told you it was cheap and easy!

To use, start the engine and then turn on the regulator on your tool just enough to flow (a very low hiss). Don't turn it on full!! Slowly run the hose end close around all the intake manifold and carburetor joints and fittings, along all vaccuum hoses, especially at the ends, and anywhere else you think might leak. Be careful not to burn yourself on hot engine parts. Listen for a smoothing out of the engine and you have found your leak.

This is a great tool for anybody's tool box and mine has served me well over the years. Hope this helps someone.
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If you don't drive it, it ain't a sports car it's an over-sized paperweight.
Tommal
Newbie
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Posts: 13


« Reply #5 on: July 19, 2007, 10:02:34 AM »

thanks for all of the suggestions. Things seem to have cleared up. At least part of the problem was a clogged fuel filter. But nothing else was obvious. But it's running, I'm driving (when my son allows).
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Tom M.
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