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3886 Posts in 1208 Topics- by 2248 Members - Latest Member: jaydeb1949

May 23, 2012, 06:18:29 PM
Maintenance IssuesTR2 - TR3aftermarket distributer
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Author Topic: aftermarket distributer  (Read 1045 times)
acro2eaa
Newbie
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Posts: 3


« on: March 10, 2008, 11:21:38 AM »

My 61 TR3A, like many has a long and lost history of hard driving. I got it from a salvage yard about 20 years ago and restored it over a 10 year period. Since then (mid 90's) I probably haven't driven it 1000 miles.  Now that I have a little more time on my hands I'd like to get out and enjoy it some. During the restoration most components were overhauled, repaired or replaced some just didn't make the cut primarily for financial reasons.  It was maintained in all original parts, no upgrades.  I'm ready to go ahead and upgrade the ignition system to something more modern.  My old original distributor I suspect is the root of my hard starting and bad timing throughout the RPM range.
   Anybody have any advise or comments on aftermarket electronic ignitions systems.
  Thanks
Sam
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charley fitch
Sr. Member
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Posts: 340


« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2008, 01:14:09 PM »

 A few of us have tried a couple of the ones on the market.  Namely Pertronix and Crane.  The Pertronix  units that one friend tried gave him fits until he pulled it off.  I have a Crane on a TR4 ( converted to negative ground) and it does a great job.  They also have Crane units for positive ground but harder to find.  Of course neither of these units involved replacing the whole distributor only the guts within it.  You might also consider getting your distributor rebuilt.  But that won't give you the new electronic ignition.  My TR3 has the stock distributor and ignition set up and does wonderfully as does the friend's TR3 who tried the Pertronix.

So I guess the bottom line is that the old units when operating correctly are still working just great.   Roll Eyes Smiley
Charley Fitch
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spitfiresrule
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Posts: 37



« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2008, 03:24:14 AM »

Sam,
Several of our group have used Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors and had amazing results. Talk to him, tell him want you want, he can do a rebuild or electronic conversion or both (the way I went). I have been using the Pertronix for several years now and have loved it. Here is Jeff's website: www.advanceddistributors.com I have no financial interest in this company, just a satisfied customer.
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Mitch D. Johnson
British Motor Club of Utah
1965 Spitfire MKII
acro2eaa
Newbie
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Posts: 3


« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2008, 04:29:37 PM »

OK,  I talked to Jeff at advanced distributors and I'm going to send him my distributor and let him overhaul it. 

Thanks for the information.

Sam
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spitfiresrule
Newbie
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Posts: 37



« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2008, 03:19:16 AM »

I'm sure you will be very satisfied. He is very specific on every little detail. Mostly when it comes to how the distributor behaves and curves etc. Your distributor will look like new. Next time you speak / write to him, tell him I said HI!
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Mitch D. Johnson
British Motor Club of Utah
1965 Spitfire MKII
JeffS
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Posts: 3



WWW
« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2008, 08:38:53 AM »

Sam, it was nice talking to you yesterday!  It has become painstakingly clear to me that TR3s are hard on distributors!  I guess most of it can be written off to age, and the hundreds of thousands (millions) of advance cycles the distributor go through in a lifetime. 
I find the best upgrade to a TR3 distributor isn't electronics, rather upgrading the advance assembly.  The TR4 advance assembly (entire shaft assembly) is an easy, undetectable upgrade that offers tremendous reliability and consistency, when compared to even a brand new TR3 DM2 distributor.  It also allows me to tailor the ignition curve to best suit your TR3 using modern fuel. 

Its also true that the aluminum advance weights in the DM2 distributors wear relatively fast when compared to the steel weights in the 25D distributors like the TR4. Reducing excess slop and getting rid of the toggle-type advance mechanism which uses an extra pivot point (less pivot points means less frition and a more linear advance and retard operation) will give you the consistnecy that's key to a good distributor.
 
I'll also add that the 25D assembly changes the position of the advance springs to give a more direct "pull" when at low speed, which allows the advance weights to pull back to center easier under low rpms.  This means that your idle speed will be much more consistent and can be tailored to be rock steady, as you could never do when they were new.  You could get very close, but not like this!  The original setup had the advance springs canted at a relatvely steep angle, so the pulling force near idle was very weak.  This commonly allows for a timing variance of 2-8 degrees at idle, which can change your idle speed dramatically. 

Sorry that I rant on about this tuff, but its a passion!   Grin
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joe kumpel
Newbie
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Posts: 25


« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2008, 09:21:36 PM »

OK, I am impressed. You guys are way beyond my level.
However, I have to add that after numerous attempts at
setting points properly with no real improvement on
performance, I replaced portion of vacuum line from
carbs to vac. advance mechanism , cleaned the whole
line out, gave it good shot of lubrication and I
am sure most of my  "rough" running was due to
vacuum advance vs. actual distributor operation.
The difference was obvious- I then played with
"advance" setting to eliminate any "knock". What I
learned is that vacuum advance is crucial to smooth
performance.

Joe Kumpel
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