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[Gils TR]

We are starting restoration on a 1959 TR 3A
and live in Northern California.  Our summer
weather can get HOT...often 105+.  We are
considering installing a new alum radiator.
The other option will be taking the stock
radiator in and having recored without the
crank hole. 
With the vast majority of you having faced
the famous overheating issue...I would appreciate
some feedback.
Thank you, Gil

[Bob Muzio]

Hi Gil,
I have friends who have used aluminum radiators with success. I, myslf, had my TR4 radiator recored to a four row , staggered, configuration. Additionally, use the sleeved thermastat or if you're using a regular stat block off the bypass hose with a plug leaving a  3/16 hole drilled in the plug. The yellow plastic 8 bladed fan (TR250/TR6) improves air flow considerably but in the case of the TR3 you'll need to mount the radiator one inch forward. An electric fan run off a toggle switch for those really hot days in stop and go traffic further aids in cooling.
A concern is that even with all of the aforementioned items is that if there is a buildup of sediment around the cylinder liners in the waterjacket the car will still run hot under load.
Bob

[charley fitch]

I have  TR3B and also live in northern CA--Redding.  I had a lot of overheating problems in the past.  But have worked them out using the stock radiator.  The first thing I had wrong was the tuning of the car.  Then I did as Bob mentioned about plugging the bypass off.  But not being a real techy kind of guy I did it the easy way.  I took the hose off one end and placed a rubber plug in it that was a bit smaller than the hose.  This allows for minimal coolant flow to make sure you don't get air trapped  behind the plug( his 3/16 inch hole).  But  the one really big item that I think did wonders is to replace the stock water pump with an aftermarket pump available from Ken Gillanders and used for racing.  It is the same pump body as stock but it has a different impeller that has 6 curved vanes.  It really moves the water.  As I have a 3B I never had a starter crank hole in the radiator to worry about.  Two summers ago I was in Chico for their car show.  On the trip between there and Redding the air temperature hit 117. With a 165 thermostat in the car the temperature guage showed about 195 at the worst.  Normally it sits just below 180 unless I am pulling a long hill.

Now with all of that said I also have a TR4 that needed a new radiator, so I put in an aluminum one.  But I have not been through a summer with it yet to find out if it is better.  If I had to replace the radiator  and was not worried about being concours I would use the aluminum one.

[joe kumpel]

Only once have I had a problem with my '59-- Foolishly
participated in a Memorial Day parade in small town NJ
with temp. in the upper 90's. I really don't think the
temp. was the issue- it was the lack of air accross the
radiator for the better part of an hour. As soon as parade
was completed and I could run through the gears at speed
needle dropped back to normal immediately. I have thought
about electric fan,but easier to just avoid parades and
have fun driving the old girl.

Joe

[Darrell]

Interesting discussion.  My TR3B has always ran hot for the better part of 15 years.  It is a Concours car so I keep it stock.  I had the Smiths summer grade sleved themostat, the Ken Gilanders water pump as well as a recored stock radiator.  She would still run hot in traffic. She was fine on the open road with air in the radiator.  OK, now she is under a rebuild.  Found the recored radiator was all plugged up, possibly with "Stop Leak" products that I used from time to time to seal leaks around the dang long neck.  I will now try to avoid those on the radiator that has again been recored (w/o a hole). 
I am going to fit a "Tropical Fan".  This was a factory option for the tropical climates on the sidescreen TR's. It is a six bladed metal fan simular to the original but the blades are at a sharper angle.  Hard to Find?  I got mine from an early GT6 MK1.  I am going to say it is the same fan.  I have heard that you can use a TR250 fan w/o any modifications if you turn and fit the fan backwards.
Wishing all including me Good Luck,
Darrell

[Gils TR]

Thank each of you for posting info
on the cooling issue.  We will share
back as we move forward!
Gil

[buffler]

My TR3 consistently overheated here in Montana (sometimes hot in summer). I checked the cooling system thoroughly, ran cleaner through, had the radiator redone, checked timing, put on electronic ignition, etc. Finally, I bought the little cardboard thingy that makes sure that the air actually flows through the radiator. DUMB beyond belief . Since then, nicely cool.
When rebuilding the engine, however, I went through three used heads, had them magnafluxed. All were cracked. Seems that I may yet have to put on the high flow pump.
Don

[6TTR3A]

All of the above are good solutions...One more thing... The aftermarket grills for wide-mouths were manufactured with smaller openings (almost 1/8" smaller as I remember)than original ones. I replaced mine with a UOS (Used old stock!) one & reduced my running temp by 8-10º
The correct vertical opening should be 17mm (11/16") The comparison between the two openings came out to a 24% difference in air intake volume.
I'm told that Charles Runyon at TRF has corrected that on his replacement grills, but I am unable to verify.
FRank     

[Darrell]

I can verify the TRF remanufactured TR3 wide mouth grilles do indeed have the spacing correct. I have one going on the TR3B.
Darrell