next »

[ranger_blackhat]

now that I have the clutch correctly bled, I started the 2 and went to back out of the garage and found that the front wheel was not totally seized but certainly dragging.  I went to remove the front drum to remember that this was the only wheel that I was unable to remove the two drum set screws.  I used additional PB Blaster, heated them up with small hand torch, but no luck.    I did reach in with the blade driver and make certain that the adjustment thing inside was on the most narrow setting.

Has anyone had this issue? 

[TR3driver]

A better question might be "Has anyone not had this problem?" 

You could try soaking in PBB for a few days/weeks, along with periodic beating on the curved part of the drum (staying away from the ribs).  But I don't have a lot of faith in that approach.

Next level would be a "hand impact tool" and a BFH.  Eg, http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG plus http://www.harborfreight.com/4-lb-sledge-hammer-with-hickory-handle-95129.html  Be sure to replace the wheel bearings afterwards, since the impact may damage them and lead to rapid failure.

Last resort is a Dremel mototool with an abrasive cutoff blade or possibly a carbide burr.  With care, you should be able to cut away enough of the screw head to get the drum off, without damaging the drum beyond use.  With the drum out of the way, I found that the remains of the screw came out fairly easily. 

Or you could just leave the screws out, since they don't seem to do anything useful.  The wheel and lug nuts clamp the drum firmly in place when they are installed.  Well, at least on cars with disc wheels or the splined adapters.  Perhaps not on early TRs with the wire wheel hubs.

[ranger_blackhat]

thanks for the response.  I will try the torch and PB again when I get the chance and wonder have you used the tool that you identified?

[TR3driver]

Yes, I have that tool (well, one very similar to it) and it works really well for this sort of thing.  The hammer blow forces the screwdriver into the slot at the moment of impact, which seems to both help loosen the threads (perhaps from the shock or perhaps it actually bends the head slightly), and help keep the bit from slipping out of the slot.  I found it absolutely essential when working on Japanese motorcycles (which use a lot of philips-head steel screws into aluminum castings).

I also made up an extended bit for mine, so it would reach into the door jambs for the screws that hold the hinges to the A-post on a TR.  Works a treat.

It does take a good, solid blow to make it work though, so don't be afraid of hitting it too hard.

[herald948]

I've much less experience with the Lockheed drums, but I recall it's very similar to Girling drums in this respect. On the few occasions where I could not get the screw to move with any of the aforementioned methods, I've found that carefully center-punching and then just as carefully drilling on the head of the screw will usually remove enough of the head to get the drum off yet still leave just enough of the threads that then can be removed with Vise-Grips or the like.

[SportsterRider]

At near the end of my restoration I found that after applying the brakes the front brakes wouldn't release. After much head scratching I tried bleeding them and found as soon as I opened the bleed nipple the brake released. It turned out the rubber hose had swolen shut to the point that when you stepped on the brake it would pressurize the caliper, but wouldn't allow the fluid to return when released. New hoses fixed the problem.

[TR3driver]

That's an excellent point, I've had the same thing happen with the rear brakes.  The hose was actually breaking up inside (likely from old age although the outside didn't look all that bad), and a flap of material was acting like a check valve.

[ranger_blackhat]

thanks for the lead and I did the brake bleed all around and it helped a bit but a symptom not the solution.  thought you had hit it on the head as the brake pedal is very tight and does not progress to the floor and that made me think that there was too much pressure in the lines but only part of the problem.

thanks

[TR3driver]

I'm confused : Did you ever get the drum off ?

[ranger_blackhat]

you are too funny!  As it turns out, just this weekend I was home and used the impact wrench you all suggested and both set screws came free within 2 slugs.  Removed the drum and reduced the adjustment to the lowest setting on the left cylinder and the wheel began to turn freely.

I bled the brakes all around while I was at it.  Now the car rolls again!  thanks....Marc