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[Randtor]

Hi all,

So, the last post I wrote documented the issues I was having with my carbs (see previous thread). After getting that squared away, I was driving locally quite regularly, when sudddenly I had a 'fuel starvation' issue. The '3' was going along fine, then started to cough and spit and run like it was on 3 cylinders. It cleared after a bit and started again as I was driving. Eventually it stalled out, and after 10 minutes of fiddling with 'stuff' along the roadside it started right up. I headed for home, but 1/2 way there it started again. Got home, fixed a few issues and it seemed to run well. Took it for gas a week later, and on the way home it stalled once again and I could not get enough fuel flow to get it to run under load at all. Towed home :-(.
So after really looking things over, it was apparent that the main problem was rust in the gas tank getting through to the carbs. It seems, when I had the car stored several years ago, moisture got in the tank and created a lot of rust. Looking back at all of my fuel problems this past year, it is apparent that this rust in the tank was the likely main culprit for all of my problems!
I removed the tank, and did the whole procedure of resealing (Por-15 marine ready cleanser, metal ready prep then sealer compound)(www.por15.com). I removed the recently rebuilt fuel pump and carbs, and I am cleaning those out completely.
And now, my question: !!
Is it advisable or even necessary, to replace all of the metal fuel lines? I have removed them from the car, flushed the pipes with carb cleaner repeatedly, and will do so with "Marine Ready" degreaser as well. The carb cleaner flowing out now is pretty clear. Having said all that, would it be better to replace all the lines by buying new pipe and bending to fit? I see the lines are available (Moss) but very pricey! I don't know how critical these lines are, or if my flushing will suffice.
Thoughts??

Thanks,
Rand

[TR3driver]

Personally, I'd leave the lines alone.  But then, I don't understand how rust was getting into the carbs anyway.  Usually the sediment bowl and screen at the fuel pump inlet do a pretty good job of trapping any rust particles that are big enough to cause problems.

[Randtor]

Hey Randall,
The rust was indeed settling in the sediment bowl of the fuel pump, and also getting by that and into a second fuel line filter I had previously installed. Yet there was rust still bypassing all of that, and getting into the carbs. Also, there were big enough particles in the tank that I believe were floating and moving around, settling into the lines and blocking fuel flow without being seen visually, as they were in the tank, and lines.
Even with all that, my first inclination is leave the lines alone. I have gotten a fairly clean flow of brake cleaner sprayed through the lines, after initially seeing dirt and fine rust particles when blowing out the carb cleaner with my compressor. I think they should be ok; there are no leaks, and all the fittings look good.

Has any one else had this option? I wonder if replacing the lines is worth all the trouble of bending and fitting new. I'd  have to fabricate new fittings as well, or spend several hundred dollars for pipes (that still need to be bent!)from Supply houses, and fittings.

Thanks,
Rand

[charley fitch]

Hi,
Replacing the lines in my estimation is not likely neeeded.  I had  problems with some chunks of rust getting into the needle valves on top of the float bowls.  So I have installed a fuel filter that is clear  ( I can see into it).  Problem solved.

Only if you were to continue to get much debris at all would I consider changing out the lines.
Charley 

[Randtor]

Thanks Charley,
I have rebuilt the carbs (actually, twice!) and the fuel pump as well becauseof allthis. I started at the wrong end, lol! I sure hope the problems are solved cleaning/sealing the gas tank, so I will likely put the lines back in and see how it goes. I can always switch them out at another time if need be.
Thanks for the check in!
Rand