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[ranger_blackhat]

Team

I am back to wrenching and lost pressure in my clutch while not paying perfect attention in the brake bleeding process.  The manual says that I should be turning the bleed nipple a full turn loosen and when I turn it a quarter turn, it appears to start leaking from the threads.  Is that normal?

have been thinking that perhaps the bleed nipple is clogged but how do i remove it to clean it without releasing all the fluid and reintroducing all the air into the system.

Does anything hear sound familiar?  I have the 1954 TR2, RHD so the pics in the book are all backwards and does not take much to confuse me normally....

thanks in advance....Marc   

[TR3driver]

Just a thought, you could try running a piece of wire or small drill bit in through the end of the nipple, see if you can open it up.

Otherwise, you probably are going to have to remove the nipple and let some of the fluid leak out.  It shouldn't affect the brakes though, as the divider in the MC will keep fluid on the brake side.  You could also minimize the fluid lost by using something to partially depress the clutch pedal during the process (so the valve back to the MC reservoir is closed off).  Or just source a new nipple, so you can screw it in as soon as the old one is free.

FWIW, I have always managed to self-bleed the clutch by pumping up the hydraulics as high as I can get (just working the pedal), holding for 10-15 seconds, then releasing the pedal suddenly.  You might have to repeat the process 5 or 10 times, but usually 3 or 4 is enough for me.  Of course my TR3s have all been LHD with Girling hydraulics, so YMMV.

[ranger_blackhat]

TR3driver,

thanks for the great advice and observations.  I have been working on it a while and finally figured out that the slave had been installed upside down -- the bleeder on the bottom.  took me a while of staring at it and looking at all the documentation to notice and once I moved it 180 degrees the bleeding took three quick presses of the pedal and it was done!

thanks....Marc