next »

[58er]

hi all,
i'm doing a frame-up restoration and have a few questions:
after sandblasting, if not ready to paint, how does one keep parts from rerusting; any storage or coating recommendations?
also, for items such as pulleys, once painted (powdercoated usually) what is normally done to the inside of said pulley- is that painted also?  it would seem not, but then how to keep it from rusting once on the car?  is that just not an issue, even on an infrequently driven auto?
there will be more, i'm sure....

thanks
Everette Fuqua

[Chahles]

Hi Everett,
I'm coming through that same issue as we speak. I keep going over the area (under bonnet valances, etc) with a wipe-down of lacquer thinner every so often which is getting very tiresome...and now practical I would guess.
Currently I'm reading of a product called Metal Ready which is used in conjunction with POR15. It comes in a regular spray bottle and is supposed to have zinc in it. I'm not planning on using POR15 on the valances, only on the frame area, but it seems to be the way to go. Still in a quandry here though. Don't do it on my say so as I'm still investigating the issue.
They say Metal Ready can be used under any paint.
Not really a primer..but a preparation product.
Being hesitant here isn't much help to you but at least you can read about this stuff.
http://www.por15.com/?gclid=COakpM-9h44CFQQ0UQodXHoNQQ
Whatever you do though..don't use POR 15 where you want a finished look. The stuff is so hard that once on and dried you can't even sand it. Great for undercarriages though.
Cheers,
Charlie Costa
'57 TR3 small mouth
Stoughton, Mass

[TR63A]

I am in the same situation with my 3A.  Once I remove any old coatings, grease, etc, I coat with a spray oil.  When I am ready to replace the part I clean it with Acetone.  It flashes off real fast and removes grease and oil very well.  I then paint, etc.  I am in Tropical Florida and in the summer it is so humid your tooth fillings rust.  This works very well for me.  If you are working with body panels in this regard, get paint on them as quickly as possible.   

[58er]

Charlie and David (et. all),
all my other triumphs have been primary driving cars, so this has never come up.  how do i keep the insides of pullies, etc. from rusting once the car is finished, but not driven for weeks at a time?  i intend to build close-to-a hermetically sealed  garage space, but flash rust is still bound to happen.  you can't powdercoat the inside of a pulley, can you?  should i do the zinc electrocoating there?  am i thinking waaay too hard and don't need to do anything?
Ev Fuqua

[none]

Hi Ev,

This is how I did my water pump pulley and other similar parts when I did some restoration on my TR6. I taped the shaft hole because I did not want to get paint in a place that was a press fit and possibly even cause some movement as the paint wore down. For the most of the pulley I first primed it and then painted it with two coats. The two coats was primarily to provide a surface that could more easily be cleaned. In the pulley grooves I did not use primer and only one thin coat of color. That way it would dry thoroughly in a shorter time and the belt could easily wear through to bare metal.

Like always, this is just how I did it. I am sure you will get other ideas as well.

[bobhustead]

No need to worry about the running surface of the pulleys. The belts will clean them just fine when put in service. If you have not yet blasted the body, consider soda blasting instead of sand. The baking soda residue retards rust until the surface is washed. If you use sand, consider immediate application of an epoxe primer. Bondo and glazes will stick to it so you can do the body work over the primer.

Bob Hustead

[none]

Hi Bob, the only reason I painted in the pulley groove was to cover deeper in the groove where the belt does not run. Otherwise you are absolutely right.

[dockwalker]

Read about this stuff on a forum for Porsches.Haven't tried it but might warrant a look.
Try this site
www.roadsters.com/gibbs/