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3886 Posts in 1208 Topics- by 2247 Members - Latest Member: Steve Ahmann

May 22, 2012, 05:02:13 AM
Maintenance IssuesTR4 RangeEngine removal question
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Author Topic: Engine removal question  (Read 703 times)
pb64tr4
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Posts: 8


« on: May 11, 2011, 10:51:50 PM »

 Huh  Would someone please tell me what are the best points to attach the chains for an engine hoist to? (63 TR4)  Thought I would use the back head stud on the right but don't know what would be the strongest for the front.  Thanks

Peter Bushe
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charley fitch
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Posts: 340


« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2011, 01:45:10 AM »

There is a circular loop on the front drivers side of the engine that is for this use.  Also on the right( passenger side) rear head stud there originally was a loop that the top was underneath the head stud and the bottom was attached to the manifold stud.  Unfortunately many people leave off the rear loop when reassembling an engine.

The other thing is that it is a really good idea if you have a tilt mechanism that will allow you to change the angle of the engine as you pull it out of the car.  I do not have one and every time I go to remove or replace an engine I swear that I am going to get one before I try that again.

Good luck.
Charley Fitch  Cool
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TR3driver
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« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2011, 11:56:42 AM »

I agree.  But if you don't have the factory lifting eye, then one of the head studs will do fine.

A tilt mechanism is definitely handy, but I've done it many times by just running a chain through the hook for the hoist.  Use a big drift to pry the chain through the hook, one loop at a time, to tilt the motor, and if necessary, a bolt to hold it there.
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Randall
58 TR3A TS39781LO :(now totaled Sad
56 TR3  TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L waiting for engine rebuild
71 Stag LE2014LBW waiting for 4-speed rebuild
charley fitch
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Posts: 340


« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2011, 12:55:38 PM »

Randall,

That is exactly what I have been doing.  And after three TR restorations, I am convinced that the tilt mechanism will be worth it.
Charley  Cool
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TR3driver
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« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2011, 01:42:37 PM »

I hope you aren't disappointed then, Charley.  I bought one for my last extraction, and I can't really say it made the job that much easier.

But then, I was doing a TR3A, where it maybe doesn't have to come as high as a TR4, so that may make a difference.
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Randall
58 TR3A TS39781LO :(now totaled Sad
56 TR3  TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L waiting for engine rebuild
71 Stag LE2014LBW waiting for 4-speed rebuild
pb64tr4
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Posts: 8


« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2011, 07:42:19 PM »

Hey Thanks everyone....I'll take another look for that circular loop on the front. Couldn't see it when I looked last night but maybe  I was too tired.

Peter
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vila
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« Reply #6 on: May 15, 2011, 03:10:22 PM »

I had the body off when I removed the engine. 

When I removed the engine I used the standard lift loop point on the front left of the engine, but for the rear I was afraid the manifold bolt was not strong enough so I used a slightly longer chain on one of the starter bolt holes. 

As I recall I used a chain with elongated links so I could put one of the links over a rear manifold stud  with a washer and nut to stabilize it but the weight was held by the stronger starter mounting hole.

Vila
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Bob Beers (Vila)
AACA, VCCA, VTR, TRA
1933 Chevrolet
1962 Triumph TR4
1984 BMW 633CSi
charley fitch
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Posts: 340


« Reply #7 on: May 16, 2011, 12:25:39 PM »

The rear loop is attached to the right rear engine head stud at the top and to the manifold stud directly below it.  So like you say Bob the weight is shared and not actually on the single head bolt.  It is unfortunate that so many people leave off the two pickup points ( especially the rear one)off of the engines when they rebuild them.
Charley Fitch  Cool
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