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[george_dotty24]

Over the winter I decided to check the oil level in my rear shocks on my 60 TR3 (I was getting bouncing when going over dips).  I don't think I've ever run into so much difficulty taking off something that only has 4 bolts that you can get to.

First, the top bolt on the shock link turns freely but doesn't come loose even when the shaft behind the shock lever is held with vice grips.  The nut turns, the bolt does not but the nut doesn't come loose. My mechanical skills are average at best but this has me baffled.

Next, the two bolts that hold the shock to the frame are so close to the shock body that I can't get a wrench on them.  I'm afraid that if I grind down a socket it will be so thin it will break. I've ordered another link in case the remedy is torching the old one off but getting the shock off the frame is the other problem.

Hopefully I'm missing something very simple.

[TR3driver]

Nope, you're not really missing anything.  The shock link has failed and will need to be replaced; but getting them apart can be a challenge.  The "head" of that "bolt" is just a washer that is welded to the pin, sounds like your weld has broken and the pin is turning inside the washer (as well as inside the shock arm).

The easiest way forward may be to cut the link in half, so you can remove the shock and cut off the nut.

For the bolts to the frame, I've got an old Craftsman thin-wall socket that will fit with some persuasion (tapping with a BFH), but the new ones are thicker and won't fit.  I would suggest trying to grind down a socket until you can drive it in there; but if it breaks rather than turning the bolt, you may have to drill the bolt.

Then convert to socket-head cap screws (which are stronger anyway) and buy a hex bit socket to suit.

Oh, and next time, just fill the shock through the plug on the side 

[george_dotty24]

Good to know that my IQ hasn't slipped to single digits yet.  I did check the oil in the shock and it seems full so I'm afraid I've got to get it off for a rebuild.

The socket head cap screws are a great idea.  Before I grind down a socket, do you recall the size.  5/8 looks right but I really don't want to experiment. 

Tapping with a BFH seems to be an oxymoron. But it also seems satisfying.

GH

[TR3driver]

Before I grind down a socket, do you recall the size.  5/8 looks right but I really don't want to experiment. 

Originals were 9/16" I believe (and the SPC agrees with my all-too-fallible memory).  But that unfortunately doesn't mean that is what is on there now.  A quick check with some calipers might be a good idea.

[george_dotty24]

Thanks for all the help. It may turn into a pleasant experience after all.

GH

[george_dotty24]

To update my progress. Sears 12 point sockets are thin enough to be usable along with the aforementioned hammer. Replacing the old bolts with socket head cap screws can be done on the rear bolt but the forward one extends inside the body work somewhere.  I had to cut off the bolts on the upper and lower shock link to get it off the car. After that, the shocks were going to be rebuilt whether they needed it or not.

I had difficulty in putting on the new shock link where it attaches beneath the leaf springs. The ball housing on the link was too large to let me put the bolt though the hole.  I tapped it in place with a hammer, the whole time praying that it wouldn't mess the threads up being forced into the hole sideways. Any advice here other than taking the U bolts off of the axle housing?

More when I get the rebuilt ones back from Apple.

[george_dotty24]

One Last Post (Hopefully)
When the rebuilt shocks were returned to me from Apple, they included some of the internals with a note saying that the parts were of poor quality and not heat treated. In following up I was told that some Asian aftermarket suppliers were rebuilding using Armstrong cores.  The parts they sent were so soft they could easily be gouged with a screw driver.  I bought the car about 4 years ago so I do not know where the shocks came from. The RH and LH shocks were painted a copper color, not the burnished finish on the ones I received from Apple.

With any luck I'll be driving this weekend.

[TR3driver]

Tapping with a BFH seems to be an oxymoron. But it also seems satisfying.

Actually it works quite well in many cases, better than heavier blows from a lighter hammer.  The idea is to get the shock, without damaging the parts involved.  When the hammer is lighter, most of the shock gets dissipated in the hammer (kind of like hitting a semi with a motorcycle).