next »

[motomadness1947]

I have been working on every part of British Cars ever since 1963, except the differential.  Just reading that manual section scares me.  My 1963 TR4 needs to have the pinion seal replaced and I would like to do it, but again I seem to be locked in fear.  I have the new seal, is if as hard as reported to replace.  I have been told that if overtighted or undertighted by just smidge the unit will self destruct in a matter of miles.  Can anyone put my mind at ease?  It would seem to me that you pull the cotter pin, remove the crown nut, retract the end piece (where the universal joint attaches) pop the seal, wipe and lubricate the area, tap in the new seal and replace the end piece, and torque the nut to level that is in the manual, I should be home free.  Help am I over think this?

[TomMull]

I'd say you have it. You do need to rig a way to hold the flange when you remove the nut, although a good impact wrench makes this unnecessay. Considerable force, as you noted, will be required. Don't pull the car off the stands. A generic puller will remove the flange. Tom

[motomadness1947]

I have a long angle iron which I am going to drill and use the universal joint bolts to hold it.  I will be wedging that bar so that it hits the frame member on the left side frame to loosen and right to tighten. 
The question remains. if I over or under  tighten the crown nut will all hell brake loose shortly there after?

Thanks
Bruce Fahnestock

[TomMull]

Bruce,
I don't believe the torque of this nut is critical. Removing the flange and seal will not affect the preload, so the nut just needs to be "tight". The book says 85 to 100 lbs, the range allowing for lining up the cotter pin holes. This assumes that the pinion bearing is good (usually problems are indicated by a howl or noise on acceleration or deceleration). Tom

[motomadness1947]

Tom, thank you so much and Merry Christmas to you and all TR4 lovers.  Knowing that it will not effect preload makes a huge difference as you might imagine (or know)  I will pop that baby in a few weeks.  Right now I am in the midst of installing a fresh engine from Matt and the great folks at Triumph Rescue.

Bruce Fahnestock

[TR3driver]

FWIW, it's the later cars that are real picky about that nut.  All TR4 use fixed spacers, so torque is not critical at all (which is good because you have to turn it to where the cotter pin lines up).

I just did this a few months ago on my TR3, and other than the cheap HF seal puller breaking instantly, it went well.  I find it easier to hold the bar in one hand and the wrench in the other (to minimize the force through the jack stands) but whatever works is fine.