Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length

 
Advanced search

3886 Posts in 1208 Topics- by 2247 Members - Latest Member: Steve Ahmann

May 22, 2012, 03:53:46 AM
Maintenance IssuesTR4 RangeRemoving the steering wheel
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Print
Author Topic: Removing the steering wheel  (Read 844 times)
Jim G
Newbie
*
Posts: 31



« on: December 03, 2010, 03:44:13 PM »

Having some issues removing the steering wheel.
Anyone out there got any tips/advice?
Thanks in anticipation...
Logged

Jim
1964 Signal Red TR4
charley fitch
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 340


« Reply #1 on: December 04, 2010, 01:40:56 AM »

How much are you trying to remove?  Just the steering wheel or the wheel and the shaft below it and then how much of that?
Charley Fitch  Cool  Huh
Logged
Jim G
Newbie
*
Posts: 31



« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2010, 09:50:10 AM »

Actually, just the wheel itself. Replacing it - or trying to. Just cant get it to budge and I dont want to whack it too hard!
Logged

Jim
1964 Signal Red TR4
charley fitch
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 340


« Reply #3 on: December 04, 2010, 03:11:51 PM »

Unfortunately, I do not know of any great tricks to get it to budge.  I would recommend the use of penetrating liquid and then using a rubber mallet or soft faced hammer and try tapping on it near the base of the spokes.  The base part of the steering wheel is really quite strong and will take some tapping/ pounding.  The outer ring of the steering wheel does not offer a lot of help when it comes to tapping as it is springy enough to absorb much of any tapping on the outer ring.  One other way to try this is to get a friend to help. With one person pulling up on the wheel the other person tap on the nut (replace the nut on the shaft for this purpose, this is to protect the threads on the shaft).  The jarring of this operation may get the splines loosened up.

Charley Fitch  Cool
Logged
Bob Muzio
Global Moderator
Full Member
*
Posts: 143



« Reply #4 on: December 04, 2010, 10:09:16 PM »

Additionally, after loosening the nut LEAVE IT ON the shaft as if you tap the wheel from the rear and the wheel breaks loose suddenly you might just find the wheel impacting your forehead.
Bob
Logged

Bob Muzio
VTR SW Region Coordinator, VP Member Services
Co-Chairperson, VTR Natl./Triumphest 2009
Chairperson, Triumphest 2011
Jim G
Newbie
*
Posts: 31



« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2011, 04:36:21 PM »

Returned to this at last - managed to remove whel eventually...

Anyone know what torque should be used when replacing the wheel?

Thx.
Logged

Jim
1964 Signal Red TR4
charley fitch
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 340


« Reply #6 on: August 13, 2011, 01:41:07 AM »

Hi,
 When you removed the wheel you likely noticed that there was a punch mark where the shaft and the wheel had been hit with a punch.  With this in mind it is not as much of the torque on the nut that holds the wheel on. Rather turn the nut down to the top of the  shaft and then use the punch to make sure that the wheel does not loosen.  I would guess that you could also use locktite instead of the punch.


Charley  Cool
Logged
Jim G
Newbie
*
Posts: 31



« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2011, 06:13:47 PM »

got it - thanks
Logged

Jim
1964 Signal Red TR4
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Print
Jump to:  

Theme orange-lt created by panic