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[ranger_blackhat]

You can probably tell by now I am finding the time to start puttering with my "NEW" '54 TR2.  As i get her ready to be on the road again (very near sans the rear brake leak) I figured i should go through and refresh every part of the F&R suspension that I could find from TRF and MOSS.

I know that i am not the only one to have thought this and done this at some time.  What I am looking for are estimated costs for all the parts and just how hard it is for someone to do it one piece at a time vice paying the price and having a great British auto shop do it for me.  I do want to bond with her but not that mechanical and have met 1 in 3 bolts and screws that are not cooperating thus far.

what experience is out there and opine on what a reasonable parts cost would be...yes, I have the catalogs and have tried to capture the parts but not sure I have them all.  Quick review and math gets me to ~$1,600 parts alone.

How hard is the job?  Something that can be done on stands and not lifts?

this ought to be good!

[TomMull]

Fairly general question so here are some general comments:
Most shops will give you an estimate for something like this, probably some sort of range.
Take a long look at Roger Williams' book, "How to Restore the TR2/3..." Remember though that it's a lot easier with the body off and I think he assumes it is.
There are a couple of bushing kits available that seem to be fairly complete but of course don't include hard parts. I like to keep as much of the original car as possible but you do need to replace what is bad. Plan for the worst but replace only what you need to. Your TR shop should be able to give you a good idea of what needs to be done.
Try to do something more specific first, wheel bearings, silent blocks, tie rod ends for example. Otherwise "one piece at a time" is impractical since you need to dismantle at least a whole corner.
Unless you have a fairly professional set of tools, plan on adding to your collection as you progress (in addition to the spring compressor and ball joint puller).
Plan to find other "issues" that need attention while you're doing this.
A lift is not necessary, but it's knuckle busting work so compressed air and pneumatic tools, floor jacks, at least six good stands and judicious heat (oxy-acetylene) make it easier and faster. You might want to look at Charlie Fitch's comments on the TR4 page of this forum "TR4 Rear springs".
Hope this helps.
Tom
By the way, did you ever track down your original "pearl" seat color?

[ranger_blackhat]

Hey Tom, always good to hear from you!

My biggest concern thus far is that about 1/3 of all the bolts that I need to move are dead frozen and even so after a week of hitting it time after time with the blasto stuff.

I have driven it about 80 kilometers since I have owned her and she appears pretty solid and may not need much by way of the front end or steering, etc.  My only issue is that I believe the rear brake leak is at the banjo and I sprayed it several times over the weekend and could not get it to release.  Since it is slow leak from the rubber cover, I have to presume that one of the washers must have compressed or needs to be re-set or something.

My early goal is to get her road worthy and safe and I believe this one rear brake is what is keeping me from the open air.  I will be posting a couple other questions over time in the near future...

Almost forgot -- working with couple of folks at VTR and englad to try and find out but best we can tell since the car was exported to Libya, it was a one-off and pearl could mean anything.  Under the current vinyl covers there is red leather so may do that.

Marc

[TomMull]

Marc,
Put some force on that banjo bolt. Use a piece of strong pipe (black iron plumbing pipe works well) on your beaker bar or ratchet to increase leverage. It will either come out or break. Just make sure that what you break is replaceable and don't round the flats off the bolt (you'll need to grind it or drill it out if you do). Use a perfectly fitting socket, preferably a six point. Use belt and suspenders approach to blocking the car also. That pipe on your wrench can produce enough torque to pull the car off the stands.
As for color, the white with red trim looks great but it's quite common on TR2s and TR3s. White with grey was used only on 1954 TR2s.
Tom

[ranger_blackhat]

hey tom

actually did get back to the car last weekend and "worked" with the banjo bolt and did finally persuade it to come free.  did not break it either!  replaced the two copper washers, cleaned the banjo completed and everything that comes into contact with it and put it all back together.

went to bleed the brakes starting with the left rear and found that it still leaks but much less than before.  Question:  I used copper washers from the local automotive shop that are labeled to be for brakes.  could it be that I need to get Moss original copper washers and they "crush" slightly different?  could it me that I have to return to the emery cloth and make sure that I clean the burrs better?  what do you suggest I go after next on this as I believe we are getting close?

Marc

[TomMull]

Hi Marc,
The good news is that those washers are cheap. I'd certainly try the Moss washers as the closer you can get to original the better chance you have of getting them to seal. (According to the catalog, there is a different part number for the inner and outer washer too.) Get a couple extra.
In addition to the washers, there are three things that could be causing the leak: the cylinder body, the banjo fitting and the banjo bolt. A tiny pit in the sealing surface any of these could cause a leak. More good news, they all seem to be available but not cheap. My guess is that the correct washers and torque will fix it. I don't have the torque spec for those bolts either but as I recall, I've used considerable tightening force to get them to seat. Perhaps someone out there knows.
Tom