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[ksd]

I'm suspecting that I need to replace the rear springs on my TR4 as on occation over rough roads at speed my mufflers make contact with the road. Is this a job I can do or is it better left to the pros? Should also mention that the car has the Moss tubular shock conversion installed. Thanks: KSD

[charley fitch]

It is not a really difficult job , but then it does have a few areas that can go wrong or at least not cooperate to get the old springs off new springs back on.  If you are up to the task I will elborate more on the problems that I encountered and I have done a number of them.

Charley Fitch 

[ksd]

Charley:
 The first question I have is whether to go with the stock springs from moss or the heavy duty. I suspect that the stock springs will meet my needs as I'm not racing but would appreciate your thoughts on the matter. Also, could you give me a heads up on any problems I'm likely to encounter and how and where I take measurements to keep the rear end in alignment. I'm just guessing that I would measure the distance from the spring attachment point on the body to the axle "u" bolts before removing the old springs and duplicate that when installing the new ones? 
Thanks for your help: KSD

[TomMull]

Charlie,
Does the TR4 provide easier access to the shackles and pins than the TR3? I found changing those to be an absolute bear of a job on my TR3 with the body on, too much force needed with too little room. Perhaps I just didn't know the secrets.
Tom

[charley fitch]

As to the springs I would not use a competition spring as it would give you a very rough ride.  I used springs from The Roadster Factory so can not comment on any from Moss.  The installation has a couple of problem areas.  To get the old springs off you need to be able to remove at least partially the front pin.  This is often rusted into place. It is indexed at the head end so it cannot spin.  So it has to be driven straight out ( to the middle of the car).  The measurements that you refer to are not necessary as the springs are indexed to the axle.  The springs have a 1/2 inch around by 1/4 inch raised node that indexes into the underside of the axle.  Now as to the reinstallation.  I have done it two different ways. Tom Mull refers to the method of where you put the front pin in first then the axle  on the springs and finally the shackle on the rear of the springs.  The other method is to put the front pin and then the shackle on and then jack up the spring to try to get the two U bolts aligned and attach the axle to the spring.  For this method you will need a lot of weight in the car to hold it down, other wise you will just lift the car up.  So invite a lot of friends over and have them sit in the car and drink beer while you work on the car.  Tom is correct about the shackle method being difficult.  A friend and I were able to use this method by placing a C clamp over the spring and shackle and getting them into position.  It was very difficult. The first method seems a bit dangerous as you are working directly next to the jack that I could never get to seat well on the curved spring.

Charley Fitch 

[TomMull]

Charlie's gotten it right, down to the details of "my method". Wish I'd thought of his. I would second his recommendation for stock springs too, none of the early TRs were noted for their soft ride. I find that chewing gum helps mitigate the teeth chatter. A final comment on the front pins, in the TR3 at least, these cannot be driven out. They must be pulled out from the back. After a considerable amount of bad language, penetrating oil, and heat (not recommended- alarming fire and smoke- I was young then), I got a large slide hammer that sucked them back. Tom

[charley fitch]

I have done the removal on a TR3 and 4.  The first time on the TR3 I do recall having to go from the back side to get it started. This I believe I did with a chisel to get the head past the indexing hump, then I probably used vise grips to turn and pull it out.  On the TR4 it does help to have a sacrificial nut on the end of the pin/ bolt.  That way you can bang on it from the side, because you do not get a very straight shot until the bolt gets pushed in a little way.  Well KSD have we convinced you that it can be done or scared you out of it?  By the way I am not a mechanic by training.  So I figure that if I can figure it out most others can do it also.
Charley Fitch 

[ksd]

 Hello again Charley:
 No I'm not scared  but a little confused.  As I look at the front attachment pin on the rear leaf spring on my early TR4 (CT14844) I don't see how it can be drifted inboard enough to remove without coming in contact with the frame cross member. I was under the car today cleaning things up and applying liberal amounts of penitrating oil in preperation for the job. Perhaps my perspective was off as I was on my back under the car with a less than ideal lighting conditions? Just want to verify that if every thing goes well that the pin is removed by pushing or drifting it inboard. Is that correct? . Thanks: KSD               

[charley fitch]

Said pin is about 6-7 inches long, you will find the head sticking out on the inner side of the frame member.  But remember that the pin head is not totally round, it is shaped about like a "C" that has been filled in.  There is a hole in the head of the pin that is threaded for a 5/16" fine thread bolt.  You can use this to try to find some way to pull the pin if you go from that side. There is also a 1 inch plus sized hole in the frame support immediately inwards of the pin head. You apparently missed seeing this hole. So yes the pin does go inwards through the frame support. It is through that hole that the pin will come out.  The frame is the same on the TR3 through TR4 in this respect, so the age of your TR4 makes no difference.  Do you have a manual on the proper order to use to remove the springs?  Having a manual will ease the job and keep you from getting ahead of yourself in the process.
Charley Fitch

[ksd]

Charley;
 Thanks for your reply, it cleared things up for me and makes sense.
Haven't ordered parts yet but when I do and have the job completed I'll let you know how it went. I do have the TR shop manual so hopefully will avoid any pitfalls along the way.  Thanks again: KSD