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[rrsanbartr6]

I just performed my first oil change on my TR6, which has the original (internal element) oil filter.
Working from 'above', in my driveway. I got it done, but it was not easy. I had to remove the fuel line from the (mech) fuel pump to get to the filter housing.

Can anyone suggest the best sequence for doing this? Easier working from underneath
the car? I am ready to buy jack stands.

Is this why there are so many types of spin-on oil filter adapters ?

Also, I damaged the (plastic) oil press gauge line (of course). Any insights on the best way to replace this, and with what? The parts catalogs are of little help here.

Could I just trim the end of the existing line and heat-fit it back onto the sender in the engine block? Or...?


Thanks, Rick Reeves
VTR Webmaster

[Jody]

Yes, that's why there are some many spin on adapters, I surprised it still has the old canister style. Way back when there were Triumph dealers, they used to give you an adapter when you bought your first spin on filter. It cost $8 for a $2 Fram filter from them, but it was the thought that counted. As for the plastic oil pressure line, good luck. It would be best to buy a new one. I consider plastic lines a "throw away" item. Once they are bad that's it.

[rrsanbartr6]

Thanks, Jody.
I do intend to replace the plastic hose.
TSI Imported Automotive sells a steel braid
cable with fittings for about $33.00 (Aug '10).
Good deal. Trouble is, I need to break into the dash to
install it. Steel braid fuel lines would also be nice.


BTW, have you ever replaced the original-style
oil filter? My thought is that it is even hard
to do if you have the car up on a lift.

Regards, Rick R