The Triumph TR4A Buyer's Guide
In addition to the items listed in the general Triumph Buyers Guide , there are a number of specific items of interest on the TR4A.
Assessing a TR4A for possible purchase is very much like assessing any Triumph. Due to the many mechanical similarities, most of the same strengths and weaknesses of TR4 or TR6 apply to the TR4A range.
- Engine: The engines generally took a lot of punishment, but ultimately that punishment shows in wear of cylinder bores, crankshafts, main and big-end bearings, thrust washers, etc. Liners and pistons are available in various sizes and are fairly straightforward to replace. Low oil pressure may be "cured" by replacing the oil pump and big end bearings (easily done with the engine in the car). Look for a missing radiator shroud as the source of overheating problems.
- Transmission: The later TR transmission is fairly bulletproof. Look for malfunctioning or maladjusted overdrive; the adjustment is simple, and swapping an OD into a non-OD is straightforward (if you can find the parts). The TR box is one of the nicest feeling gearboxes this side of a Hewland racing transaxle.
- Brakes: The electrical and hydraulic systems of these cars will show no surprises for those familiar with other Triumphs or indeed any other British-made cars. Weak brakes often mean poorly adjusted rear drums.
- Chassis/Frame: One of the most critical parts of any car is, of course, the chassis; the TR4A is no exception. The fore/aft strength of the car counts on solid sills. Clunks from the rear under power may indicate worn, missing or broken differential mounts; usually the front right mount wears and then breaks, followed quickly by its left rear counterpart. Loose or worn universal joints are another common source of noise at the rear; lubrication of these items is essential (and sometimes difficult). A nice addition to find is the rubber gaiters from a TR250 to cover the inner joints.
- Body: Apart from the sills, these cars have several other common rust points: the trailing end of the front fenders, where mud and muck gets caught behind the "access panels" (which seem to be rarely used), and the upper arches of the rear fenders. Rustproofing (and paint!) seems to have been applied to these areas after assembly, leaving much exposed metal.
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